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At Jafarganj, the patrons built a luxurious palace of Najafi rulers in Murshidabad, during the early sixteenth century. Mir Jafar succeeded it later. The entrance of the royal palace of Najafi rulers in Murshidabad was through a gigantic arched gate with numerous hidden chambers. They were specially constructed to monitor any unusual entrants to the inner palace, setup nahabat (Nawabi orchestra) for welcoming stately guests or hold secret meetings with non-Islamic parties.
Painful History of Nafarganj Palace
Mir Jafar is attributed as the ‘traitor’ in the history. In summary, He betrayed Bengal’s Nawab Siraj-ud-Daullah at the Battle of Plassey in 1757. And from that day onwards, people called the entry porch to his Jafarganj Palaceof the najafi rulers in Murshidabad Nimak Haram Deori or Traitor’s Gate. Moreover, Mir Jafar and his son held a clandestine meeting with the British at one of the seraglios of Jafarganj Palace.
Multiple schools of thought exist regarding the blood warming past of this massive gateway. Some say at one of the hidden chambers of this porch one of Mir Jafar’s spies brutally murdered Siraj-ud-Daullah. In contrast, some say, the murder took place at another site but his corpse was laid here overnight for some unfaithful act.
Our Experience of visiting Nimak Haram Deouri
After reaching Murshidabad, we drove through the congested Lalbagh market towards Mahimpur. On our left was the Nimak Haram Deori and opposite to it was the Najafi cemetery. Getting down near the colossal doorway, our eyes floated back to centuries ago. The bricks have witnessed Nadir of brutalities which shattered the fate of India for centuries. In addition, the roof of the gate seemed to have collapsed long back. Furthermore, you can find a rectangular hole at the middle and arched ones at the inner porticoes.
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People believed there were several curses on the gate. Therefore, if any treacherous soul crosses it, he will spit blood soon after visiting the Nimak Haram Deori. Surprisingly, no remnants of Mir Jafar’s Jafarganj Palace exist today. However, the ruins of this porch and a prayer hall are intact just behind the deori. Probably the Jafarganj Palace used to be there in an earlier time. As an enlisted well maintained private property, no outsiders could cross the gate. However, regular pedestrian footfall was evident from the shoe imprints on the dusty lane beneath the Nimak Haram Deori leading towards the backside prayer hall.
Whatever be the painful history of the gateway, the air around carries a smell of bloodbath even today.
I hope this travel blog on the palace of the Najafi rulers in Murshidabad will provide valuable information about the history of Siraj ud daulah.
How to reach:
The most convenient route to reach Murshidabad is by Hazar Duari Express from Sealdah station. By road, it takes around 6 hours (200 kilometers) via NH34. However, road conditions are not advisable for small cars.
Where to stay:
There are no accommodation facilities at Jafarganj. However, Government tourist lodge is available at Berhampore, around 10 kilometers away. In addition, ample budget hotels are available in Lalbag area.
What to see around:
Najafi Cemetery, Azim-un-Nisa begum’s grave, ruins of Jafarganj Mosque
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